Family Dogfight

Aggression between familiar dogs in the same household is a common occurrence. It is the problem that leads to more surrendered, rehomed, and euthanized dogs than any other behavioral issue.

Interdog aggression is often rooted in underlying anxiety or a lack of appropriate social skills in one or both dogs. It is important to look at each dog individually and work toward decreasing the fear and anxiety levels. When fights occur, damage to the relationship between the dogs can be difficult to mend. It is much easier to avoid or prevent situations that lead to interdog aggression than to break up fights that might lead to serious injuries.

As with most behavioral issues in dogs, always have your veterinarian check for a medical pathology that might have caused a shift in behavior, especially if the onset of the behavior is new and out of context for that particular dog. Management of the environment is key — it is not about reintroducing your dogs.

Causes of Aggression

Interdog aggression can be triggered by a variety of situations, including:

Excitement or arousal. One dog becomes excited, fearful, or anxious, and that triggers the other dog.

Maneuvering in small spaces. Doggie doors, doorways, and the space between a coffee table and sofa are examples of tight spaces. What one dog determines is a small space might not be the case for the other, however.

Arrival of visitors. Many variables can apply here — a car drives up and parks, the doorbell rings, someone enters the home, or eye contact occurs between the dog and a person. An established visitor routine is necessary and safest.

Barking or whining by one dog. One dog becomes vocal, and it can trigger the other dog. Vocalizing is a normal dog behavior, and when one dog communicates fear and anxiety, the other dog might do so also. They feed off each other, in a sense.

Competition over (or proximity to) food, toys, favored resting places, and the owner’s attention. Establishing a structured feeding routine is crucial. Never free-feed multiple dogs in your home. Each dog needs a unique place to eat. A closed door between dogs is a must. Dogs will need to be separated to prevent aggression. That is a great reason to teach go-to-spot, mat, or crate training. Crates are meant as a safe haven, never a punishment. All high-value toys or chews must be given only when dogs are unable to roam freely. It is worth mentioning that the items that each dog regards as high value are different and special. I have observed dogs that will guard toilet paper rolls with every bit of viciousness they can muster.

Interdog aggression can be frightening and heartbreaking. I receive more calls for help because of family dogs fighting than from any other behavior issue.

Treatment plans will vary from household to household, and all situations are unique. The initial goal of a behavior treatment plan is to improve the welfare of the dogs and to maintain a safe environment for all dogs and family members. It requires a great deal of management on the owner’s part. Management of the environment is key. The dogs will need to be separated, and this includes no eye contact between them. It is likely that you will use equipment, including leashes, crates, gates, tethers, and closed doors.

Dogs are very good at communicating. We just don’t read it very well. Some dogs can be very subtle. Others exhibit a variety of warnings. All family members will need to become proficient at reading each dog’s body language by observing and documenting what they see. That will help to determine each dog’s way of communicating through posturing. Body posturing is one of the ways dogs communicate fear, anxiety, and intentions leading to aggression. Examples of body posturing are stiff body, piloerection (goosebumps, fur standing up), lip licking, air puffing, whale eye (staring with the whites of the eyes showing), pacing, baring teeth, growling, hypervigilance, and hovering over the other dog.

Other Aspects of Aggression

Anxiety and fear are often precipitators of aggression. There is a very neurochemical component to anxiety, fear, and stress. Treatment involves understanding the neurochemical changes that occur with learning and repeated exposure, and treatment is about becoming more humane. The neurochemical shift that drives social maturity would make interdog aggression worse.

Challenges between family dogs can include blocking access to a bed or crate; lying on or in front of a couch or chair (blocking access); shoving past the other dog to get out or in a door or car first (doggie doors); stealing the other dog’s food, biscuits, toys, or chews; using halls, doorways, and steps to control the other dog and his access to areas or to escape from them; ritualized displays, including when the challenger approaches the other dog nose to shoulder; staring; bullying or pushy behavior; vocalizing; frank aggression.

Basket muzzle training is important in maintaining a safe environment. All dogs should be conditioned to wear a muzzle, and that will require patience and practice. Muzzling is not meant to be a punishment. Look at muzzle training as a predictor of peace in your home. When your dogs are ready to be reintroduced, the muzzles will help to do that safely.

It is important to attempt to determine which is the victim dog (the one which exhibits defensive aggression) and the aggressor (the one which is offensively aggressive). Behavior modification can be very helpful even without correct identification of victims versus aggressors, but it is helpful. You will be much more successful in preventing, anticipating, and fixing the problematic interactions if you understand each dog’s relative role. It is important to remember that to a dog, the best defense is to be offensive.

If you have more than two dogs, one dog might take on the role of the mediator dog. The mediator might be watchful of the other dogs and choose to accompany one dog. The mediator might try to separate the two dogs, often blocking the view of the two problem dogs. In addition, female dogs are more likely to become aggressive with each other than male dogs.

It is very useful to implement a positive reinforcement and a learn-to-earn system, redirecting your dog with a look-and-focus cue, touch, or other alternative. Go-to-spot or mat training will help your dogs to relax.

Aggression between household dogs is managed by recognizing and when possible avoiding triggers and by controlling the behavior of both dogs through training based on positive reinforcement. Anticipating what could happen or likely will happen between your dogs is key to the effectiveness of the behavior treatment plan. The diligence and ability of the owners to follow the plan is also imperative. It takes compliance and effort. It is also important for owners to have realistic goals. There is hope, and there are many success stories!

Happy tails, Karen